The evolution of rave fashion
Rave, at it’s best, is a movement of free expression. Its core principles being peace, love, happiness and unity. An environment where everyone is accepted and brought together through the love of music. But it's not just the music that is so important to this scene. There's no better example of the freedom and individuality that lives at the heart of this movement than the fashion.
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The summer of 89’ is where the acid house movement was born and therefore the beginning of rave. This period is known as the second summer of love as it was fueled through a rejection of Thatcherite Britain, much like the original 1960s summer of love which was coordinated with the movement against the vietnam war. The similarities between these two movements is also reflected in the fashion. There was a kind of hippy-revival in early rave fashion and it embraced very bright colours and tie dye. People would also often add bright accents like whistles and beads. And just like in the 60s, the fashion was open to experimentation.
As most of the early raves were outdoors, the style was very relaxed and people just wore whatever they felt comfortable in. Mostly oversized, loose fitting clothes from brands like Oshkosh and Chipie. The yellow smiley face quickly became the defining symbol for the movement and was soon worn by pretty much everyone.
By the late 90s, fashion was very much influenced by LA hip hop culture. Adidas, cropped baby doll tees and big statement jewelry were all very popular whilst still embracing the oversized, baggy style from the start of the decade. According to a recent exhibition ‘Super Sharp’, this time period is when designer brands started to become important (another influence from hip hop culture). Big Italian labels such as moschino, versace, iceberg, d&g etc (often bootlegs) became essential in the jungle and garage rave scene as this style suited the new club style surroundings these raves were taking place in.
In terms of our generation, a particular style is difficult to pinpoint. Perhaps because style is so diverse in general as we now have instant access to all different types of looks to take inspiration from. However 90s and 2000s (or y2k) fashion has definitely made a big comeback. Vintage garms from big brands like evisu, true religion, d&g, dior, moschino, stone island etc that were essential to scene in the late 90s and early 2000s are starting to make an appearance again in street fashion alongside the relaxed, loose fitting clothes popular with the early 90s acid house raves. Even beaded necklaces and other bright jewellery like resin rings have become very a big trend. These days, with lockdown and our current government, things are pretty bleak so perhaps the revived interest in this fashion has come from wanting to experience the same euphoric and carefree environment of the early rave scene and/or perhaps just like in any other creative sector, we are simply sampling from different places to make something original and unique to our generation.
(image by @shotbyezza)
(image by @geekfiles)
(image by @taa.mara)
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(image by @shotbyezza)
(image by @shotbyezza)
(image by @mads.ac)
(image by @madz_snapz)
(images by @mads.ac)
(image by @taa.mara)
Many of today's brands are taking inspiration from these 90s styles. One of which is BryBrny, a 90s rave inspired brand started by designer Bryony Thomson!
How did you begin making clothes and what inspired you to start up your own brand?
During the first lockdown i had just graduated and had left over fabric samples from my textile design degree and wanted to recycle these into something I could wear. I started by just making tops for me and then my friends and it just grew from there on instagram. I’ve always wanted my own brand and lockdown seemed like the perfect time to focus on it!
Your brand is inspired by the 90s rave scene. What is it about this that interests you in particular? And what made you decide to base it around the 90s as opposed to today's scene?
I am so obsessed with the 90s. All my favourite songs/ films/ books and styles are set in the 90s so I feel it’s just an era that kind of defines my style and interests. I love the retro aesthetic of the 90s rave photography which is why my designs are created in that style. All the imagery in my prints are photos I’ve taken from the current rave scene and put together in a way that ties both together.
How would you describe the fashion in today's rave culture?
I would say there’s a massive mix and it depends what type of music/ rave you’re going to. It’s a lot of prints and patterns combined with big brands and vintage labels. There’s also a lot of casual rave wear, and I think people don’t really care what you’re wearing as long as you're there to have a good time and enjoy the music.
How do you come up with your unique designs? What influences you?
I have so many ideas when it comes to what designs I want to make, from watching films set in the 90s I get a big influence on the style of clothes they are wearing. However I mainly make clothes that I myself would want to wear and take it from there!
What is your favourite piece you have made and why?
My favourite piece is definitely ‘the blue print’ as it has a lot of photography and imagery of me and my friends. It kind of resembles the scene for me as it’s a combination of so many memories collaged together into a top.
What are you hoping to achieve with your brand in the upcoming months?
I have so many exciting things planned! I'm currently working on a website which will make it much easier to buy, and I'm also working on other products. Some men’s wear and preparing for when raves and festivals can happen! I hope to one day do this full time so I can make all these plans a reality much sooner!
