With only 2% of workers paid a living wage and 1 in 4 Bangladeshi garment workers reporting abuse at work, fast fashion is the fashion industry’s most unethical area, however it has also become its most profitable. Why does the industry time and time again turn a blind eye to more sustainable and ethical fashion? The answer is simple, they profit off fast fashion and the exploitation that comes with it. Capitalist greed has made it that the CEOs and corporate workers are more concerned with making money than giving their employees safe working conditions and a basic living wage.
Fast fashion is defined as “inexpensive clothing produced rapidly by mass-market retailers in response to the latest trends.” At the basics, fast fashion is big corporations producing cheap clothing at breakneck pace and making a profit by exploiting labourers and the environment. The fashion industry relies heavily on fast fashion to produce high profits and keep “relevant” in an ever-changing world, fast fashion and the fashion industry as a whole have become interchangeable, making it seem that one cannot exist without the other. This has made the fashion industry unethical and unsustainable, making it the second largest polluter of clean water, contributing to 10% carbon emissions worldwide, and normalised child and prison labour. 90% of textile workers are not able to negotiate a wage increase.
Greedy corporations target developing countries such as India, China and Bangladesh to build unsafe factories and exploit poor people desperate for money to feed their families. Out of the 74 million textile workers worldwide, 80% are women of colour. These women are forced to work in dangerous environments with little to no basic human rights, made to work long hours and in many instances not allowed food or toilet breaks. Over the years many people, mostly young women of colour, have perished at the hands of these corporations during factory fires, exhaustion, and inhumane treatment from superiors.
The names of these corporations are not alien to us, they are not a foreign “other” to be condemned but rather familiar, home brand names; Topshop, H&M, Primark, Zara, New Look, and Pretty Little Thing to name a few. Through “Influencer culture” and target marketing these companies cover up their heinous labour practices and contributions to systematic oppression to convince the consumer to buy their latest season drop.
The fashion industry benefits from rampant racism and misogyny.
Sustainable fashion looks to completely change the way clothing is made and sold. Looking to make the process more environmentally friendly by reducing toxic chemicals being released during the production process and, reducing the amount of clothing that ends up in landfills each year. Brands aim to produce higher quality garments made to last longer and do away with corporate propaganda that you need a new wardrobe every 3 weeks, encouraging us to “take it slow” with buying new clothes.
Sustainable fashion is slowly becoming more popular even if the industry, as a whole, would rather ignore it. Some brands leading this revolution are Lucy & Yak, Levi, House of Sunny, and made-to-order brands such as By Megan Crosby. These brands are all about cutting down on pollutants, waste, and increasing fair pay for workers. Sustainable fashion is also about buying vintage and second-hand, repurposing clothing already owned or swapping with friends and family.
With the rise of sustainable fashion also comes the gentrification of second-hand and charity shops, these shops see a rise in demand and want to capitalise thus alienating people who rely on second-hand shops, instead catering to a richer upper class who can afford the rise in price. Buying second hand does not change the fact that the fashion industry is still unsustainable and while it reduces the individual unsustainability, it does not change the company’s practices. It is not up to the consumer to change; we are not the issue. Big corporations would rather make a billion through corrupt and unethical practices then provide their employees with a living wage. Brands also try tricking us into thinking they are sustainable and eco-friendly when they are anything but. They make superficial changes and use target words and phrases in advertising to make us thing they are changing for the better but producing one “sustainable” dress and changing one method of packaging will never make up for their use of exploitation. This is how the industry turns a blind eye to sustainability, it would rather make consumers think it was up to us to change our shopping habits rather than changing their own terrible practices
Big corporations will never be sustainable no matter how much they try greenwashing their marketing, the fashion industry needs a whole overhaul and every corporation must be held accountable for their crimes against the proletariat. We, as consumers hold the power, they are nothing without our money even though they make it seem that the CEOs and big bosses are in charge. It is up to us to force companies to change, we can withhold profits by buying less and choosing to buy more from brands that are better for workers and the environment. However, it is not always that simple, cheap fashion is popular for a reason; sometimes it is the only thing people can afford or the only clothing option catered towards them. Sustainable fashion is not always affordable and not always accommodating for plus size people, thus while sustainable brands are a better choice in a socio-economic and environmental sense, they too have a long way to go before truly being the best alternative for all.
There will never be ethical consumption under capitalism so do not beat yourself up for buying fast fashion, just think before you buy and make informed decisions in the future. Power to the people.
written by cinzia billson
photo by pratibha gurung (@pratibha.04)